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    • 专利摘要:
    concentric spun yarn and fabric. a concentric spun yarn (core spun), characterized by the fact that the core is a stretchable filament and is surrounded by a coating of the carded fiber yarn based on polytrimethylene terephthalate in combination with the second staple fiber. fabric is made using concentric spinning yarn. the fabric produced from concentric spun yarn is highly stretchable and has high dimensional stability, low growth and high recovery.
    公开号:BR112014014229B1
    申请号:R112014014229-7
    申请日:2012-12-12
    公开日:2021-03-23
    发明作者:Akshay Kumar；Gowri Nagarajan
    申请人:Dupont Industrial Biosciences Usa, Llc；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] [001] This patent application claims the priority of provisional patent application 3626 / DEL / 2011 filed on December 13, 2011 which is incorporated herein by reference. FIELD OF THE INVENTION
    [0002] [002] This invention relates to concentric spinning yarns based on polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) with the yarn core comprising stretchable filament and the yarn coating comprising staple fiber based on polyitrimethylene terephthalate.
    [0003] [003] This invention also relates to highly stretch fabrics that exhibit high recovery and low growth, with the spun-core yarn based on PTT being in the weft direction. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
    [0004] [004] The garment industry has a constant demand for better and more modern varieties of fabrics to meet the insatiable and evolving needs of demanding consumers. One of the needs of the garment industry is a demand for stretch fabrics with a wearable behavior.
    [0005] [005] Concentric spinning yarns (CSY) are widely used in the manufacture of stretch fabrics used in the manufacture of denims, pants and blouses. CSY's known in the art typically feature cotton, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), viscose, nylon or their mixtures as their thread coating component with Lycra or spandex filament forming the core. CSY garments have a stretch level that varies from 7 to 35% depending on the percentage of spandex in the core. The fabric manufactured with a stretch level of 8 to 15% is called elastic comfort fabric. Fabric with a stretch level of 16 to 35% is called super stretch fabric. A fabric with a stretch level of 35% has a high percentage of Spandex (approximately 9 to 10%). This leads to high% growth or low potential for recovery that is unwanted. A fabric with almost 15% stretch level shows almost 5% growth and only 70% recovery level. This leads to loose formation and dimensional instability in the final garment after some use.
    [0006] [006] Patent document WO 2008130563 describes elastic composite yarn used as warp yarn and fabric-woven filler yarn comprising a filamentary core comprising elastic performance filament (s) and inelastic control filament (s) and a coating of the fibrous yarn comprising spun carded fibers.
    [0007] [007] There is a need in the market for fabrics with high stretch properties and high dimensional stability with low growth and high recovery. These properties generally provide fabrics that are more durable and superior levels of comfort and aesthetic elements. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
    [0008] [008] A concentric spun yarn comprising a core comprising a stretch filament surrounded by a yarn coating comprising a staple fiber based on polytrimethylene terephthalate in combination with a second staple fiber is described herein.
    [0009] [009] Also, a fabric comprising the concentric spun yarn described above is described here. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
    [0010] [010] Figure 1 is a schematic representation of the production of concentric spun yarn.
    [0011] [011] Figure 2 is a schematic representation of fabric production (denim) using concentric spun yarn. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
    [0012] [012] A fabric made from a concentric spun yarn (CSY) is described here. CSY is also described which comprises fibers carded with polytrimethylene terephthalate. A CSY is a yarn that consists of an inner core yarn surrounded by carded fibers. The surrounding carded fibers thus form the lining of the CSY yarn. A concentric spun yarn combines the strength and / or elongation of the yarn core and the characteristics of the coating of the staple fiber yarn that forms the surface.
    [0013] [013] The fabric is a stretchable, dimensionally stable fabric that is comfortable to wear, has high stretch properties associated with good stretch recovery and less growth.
    [0014] [014] The fabric, in addition to the above characteristics, also corrects practical aspects of growth in heavy, highly stretch fabrics such as denims, bottom fabrics, and clothing fabrics.
    [0015] [015] As used herein, the terms "polytrimethylene terephthalate" or "PTT" are used interchangeably. Polytrimethylene terephthalate is bio-based, bio-based or petroleum-based.
    [0016] [016] As used herein, the term "staple fiber" refers to a fiber of standard length as opposed to a continuous fiber which is known as a filament. Carded fibers are cut to a specific length of the continuous filament fiber. staple fiber is cut to lengths ranging from 1-1 / 2 inches to 8 inches.
    [0017] [017] A concentric spun yarn has an inner core comprising a stretchable filament and is surrounded by a coating of the carded fiber yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate in combination with the second staple fiber.
    [0018] [018] The stretchable filament can be a Spandex filament. Spandex is a polyurethane-polyurea copolymer known for its elasticity and stretch. A continuous spandex filament gives CSY stretch.
    [0019] [019] As used herein the term "fibers carded based on polytrimethylene terephthalate" refers to fibers carded at 100% polyethylene terephthalate (PTT) or PTT in combination with another polymer selected from nylon, styrene, polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or mixtures of these carded fibers.
    [0020] [020] In one embodiment of the invention, the carded fibers based on PTT are in combination with the second staple fiber selected from: cotton, polyester, viscose, nylon, modal, tencel, wool yarn or combinations thereof. In one embodiment, the carded fibers based on polytrimethylene terephthalate are in combination with cotton and viscose. These form the lining of the concentric spinning wire.
    [0021] [021] In another embodiment, the content of polytrimethylene terephthalate in the outer thread coating is 10% to 60%, or 25% to 50%, or 35% to 40%. The percentage of polytrimethylene terephthalate used in the weft yarn in the yarn coating contributes to the stretch recovery properties in CSY.
    [0022] [022] A "woven-fabric” is used to define a fabric made by interlacing two sets of yarn called warp yarns (warp) and weft yarns (weft). The warp passes through the fabric in a longitudinal direction and yarns weft pass through the fabric in a transverse direction.The fabrics are woven through techniques well known in the state of the art such as taffeta stitch, satin stitch, and twill stitch.
    [0023] [023] The CSY core can be a stretch fiber or filament selected from a group of Spandex and Lyrca®. In one embodiment of the invention the percentage of stretchable fiber in the yarn was in the range of 2% to 10%, or 5 to 8%, or 5 to 6%.
    [0024] [024] In one embodiment of the invention the yarn coating comprises a weft yarn that is CSY as described here and a warp yarn is a yarn selected from cotton, nylon, polyester (e.g. PET, PTT), yarn wool, viscose, and combinations of these.
    [0025] [025] The term "stretchable" as used herein refers to a fabric's ability to extend to a certain percentage of length when a fixed amount of load is applied. A fabric with good stretch property is defined by the fabric's ability in extending to the maximum and recovering with a minimum amount of growth left in the fabric, after removing the applied load. An example of good stretch property in a fabric is approximately 15% stretch. Such fabrics are called "stretch fabrics" comfort ”. Stretch and growth property is measured using standard ASTM international procedures (see table 1).
    [0026] [026] One aspect of the invention is a fabric composed of a concentric spun yarn with the inner core of the concentric spun yarn comprising a stretchable filament and surrounded by a coating of the carded fiber yarn based on polytrimethylene terephthalate in combination with a second fiber.
    [0027] [027] The fabrics of this invention exhibit "high dimensional stability" which means that they exhibit maximum recovery and minimum growth left in the fabric after the stretch is released.
    [0028] [028] The term "stretch recovery" used here refers to the tissue's ability to stretch to its maximum level and recover with a minimum amount of growth left in the tissue after removal of the applied load. An acceptable stretch recovery presents over 70% stretch recovery. Over 70% recovery and less than 2.5% growth in a fabric makes it dimensionally stable. The stretch recovery and tissue growth properties remain constant throughout useful life of the fabric.
    [0029] [029] Other properties of the fabric such as weight, limit of tensile strength and tear resistance have also been described using standard international ASTM procedures (see table 1).
    [0030] [030] ASTM refers to the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM International; West Conshohocken, PA). ASTM International publishes the Annual Book of ASTM Standards annually.
    [0031] [031] In one embodiment, the fabric of this invention shows stretch recovery in the range of 75 to 95%, or 80 to 95%.
    [0032] [032] In another embodiment, the fabric of this invention shows growth of less than 2.5%, or less than 2.3%.
    [0033] [033] In addition to the high stretch capacity (greater than 15%) of high recovery (greater than 70%) and low growth (less than 3%), the fabrics of this invention present an excellent wearable behavior provides protection against ultraviolet rays, provides resistance to acid and alkaline medium during washing due to the coating of the PTT yarn in the concentric spun yarn of the fabric.
    [0034] [034] The fabric of the invention is selected from simple fabric, denim fabric, background fabric, blouse fabric, fabric dyed in pieces, printed fabric, checkered fabric and striped fabric.
    [0035] [035] The fabric described here can be used, for example, fabrication of clothing, sheet fabric such as sheets, furniture or upholstery upholstery.
    [0036] (a) processo de abertura e limpeza para a fibra descontínua de algodão; (b) cardagem para a fibra descontínua de algodão; (c) reunião de cintas; (d) penteadura, formação de manta da fibra descontínua de algodão; (e) penteadura da fibra descontínua de algodão; (f) abertura da Fibra a base de PTT e fibra descontínua de algodão obtida da etapa de penteado; (g) mistura das duas fibras; (h) processo de abertura e limpeza; (i) cardagem; (j) trefilação; (k) fiação preliminar; (l) fabricação do fio; (m) bobinagem; e (n) condicionamento. [036] One aspect of the invention is the method of making the concentric spun yarn, the yarn covering being a bicomponent fiber comprising carded PTT and cotton fibers in which the process comprises the steps of; (a) opening and cleaning process for cotton staple fiber; (b) carding for cotton staple fiber; (c) strapping; (d) combing, forming a blanket of cotton staple fiber; (e) combing of cotton staple fiber; (f) opening of Fiber based on PTT and cotton staple fiber obtained from the combing stage; (g) mixing the two fibers; (h) opening and cleaning process; (i) carding; (j) drawing; (k) preliminary wiring; (l) yarn manufacturing; (m) winding; and (n) conditioning.
    [0037] [037] Steps (a) to (e) apply to cotton staple fiber. After combing the cotton staple fiber, the cotton fiber is mixed with the PTT-based fiber and subjected to process steps (f) to (n) as mentioned above.
    [0038] [038] The term "opening and cleaning process" refers to a process where the fiber after opening and mixing is processed in an "opening and cleaning line". An opening and cleaning line consists of a number of machines used in succession to open and clean the cotton fiber. Approximately 40% to 70% of waste is removed in the opening and cleaning section. The objects (carded cotton fibers and PTT) of the opening and cleaning are opened followed by a cleaning in which the fibers are opened from a larger tuf size (in hundreds of grams) to a smaller tuf size (in mgs) . Then a cleaning is done that removes dirt, dust, broken seeds, broken leaves and other unwanted materials from the fiber. Both processes are accompanied by mixing and blending to produce a good quality yarn and reduce production. Then a blanket or fleece is formed, in which the clean, open fiber is transferred to a flat shape with defined width and length, which is called a blanket in a modern system. This layer can be directly guided to the carding in the form of fleece.
    [0039] [039] The term "carding" refers to a process of unraveling fiber bundles into individual fibers and arranging them in a parallel direction after the individualization of the fiber. It also eliminates waste and other foreign materials and fibers that are unacceptable in manufacturing. The operation is performed on cotton, wool yarn, silk waste, and synthetic carded fibers through a carder consisting of a mobile conveyor belt with thin wire brushes and a rotating cylinder. is called a girdle or carding girdle.
    [0040] [040] The carding process opens the collected mass of fibers so that the fibers become individual fibers. However, the fibers in the card belt are not completely aligned or oriented on the fiber axis. Some fibers are randomly on the belt. Therefore, the cardiac belt is conducted for a minimum of two grafting processes before proceeding to the next machine. In this process, the belt is passed between sets of rollers that pass at different speeds, each next pair rotating faster than the previous one so that the fibers are pulled in a longitudinal direction. These two drafting operations can also be obtained by the cotton banding and wrapping machine. To improve the uniformity of the belt, the belts are subjected to a process called duplication. Duplication is the process of combing a number of girdles. Through this process, the thin and thick points present in the belt are leveled. In the strap assembler, 16-20 card straps are woven and passed through the feed table to three pairs of drawing rollers for the drawing operation. The straps are then removed from two pairs of calender rollers that compress the belt material. This stretched and compressed belt material called a blanket is lapped on a spool. This process is known as "blanket formation".
    [0041] [041] "Combing” is an additional fiber alignment operation performed on very fine yarns intended for finer fabrics. (Cheap and coarse fabrics are made from belts processed without this further refinement.) Fine combs are applied to the combing belt, separation of the shortest fibers, called noils (short fibers removed in carding), and alignment of the longest fibers to a higher level of parallelism. The resulting filament is called a combing belt. With its long fibers the combing belt provides a softer, flatter yarn.
    [0042] [042] The term "drawing" refers to a process (after carding) in which several straps are combined into a filament that is stretched to be longer and thinner. The strap coming out of the carder presents a variation in mass / high length along the length To minimize this process, duplication and stretching processes are carried out on a wire drawing machine.There are usually two such drawing processes to reduce the mass / length variation in a belt to a minimum and to guide fiber along the longitudinal direction. The first drawing process is called the initial drawing and the second drawing process is called the finishing drawing. Drawing frames feature several pairs of rollers through which the straps pass. passes at a higher speed than the previous pair so that the strap is pulled longer and thinner when it moves through the wire frame dog. The operation is repeated through several stages.
    [0043] [043] The belt provided by the finishing drawing frame presents a minimum mass / length variation and fibers oriented in relation to the filament axis contribute to tensile properties. However, the linear density of the belt is approximately 140 times the required final yarn. This needs to be further reduced to the required linear yarn density. This can be done in a subsequent drawing process and is carried out in a two-step drawing process being a speed frame machine and a ring frame machine. This two-stage stretching process is recommended as single-stage stretching entails the introduction of high mass / length variations. However, when the number of fibers in the belt decreases, the fibers need to remain in continuous form to be resistant so that the fibers can be processed in the next machine. To check the resistance to the fiber fleece, an initial braiding is done on the speed frame machine. The entire process of initial stretching and braiding is called preliminary spinning preparation. Through this stretch operation, the belt becomes thinner, and the resulting product is called "preliminary spinning."
    [0044] [044] The term "yarn spinning" refers to the process of forming the final yarn. The concentric spun yarn has an elastomeric fiber core and a carded fiber yarn coating. Core spinning is a process by which fibers are woven around an existing yarn, either filament or fiber yarn to produce a coating of the matrix yarn structure in which the yarn already formed is the core. Concentric spinning yarns are produced by several spinning systems, for example, System ring spinning method, matrix coating spinning method, standard spinning system, double matrix spinning system, composite electrostatic spinning system, rotor spinning system, friction spinning system or jet spinning system. They are conventional systems that are well known to the person skilled in the art One embodiment of this invention is the spinning of a PTT-based fiber-cotton coating using a ring spinning system to produce the fiber and concentric wiring as described here. The process is shown schematically in figure 1.
    [0045] [045] Ring spinning produces yarn in a small package called a bobbin or bobbin. Since ring frame grooves are not suitable for further processing, the winding process serves to obtain additional objectives made necessary by the requirements of the subsequent processing stages.
    [0046] [046] The term "winding" refers to a process of obtaining a wider package of several small coils. This conversion process provides one with the possibility of cutting out unwanted and problematic faults. The process of removing such faults attainable is called wire 'cleaning'.
    [0047] [047] Finally, the wire needs to be conditioned. The term "conditioning" refers to the process of providing an economical device to provide the necessary moisture in a short time in order to obtain a lasting improvement in yarn quality and processability in a subsequent process by reducing the tendency to bottling. Humidity in the atmosphere has a great impact on the physical properties of textile fibers and yarns. Relative humidity and temperature decide the amount of moisture in the atmosphere. High relative humidity in different spinning departments is not desired. On the other hand, a high degree of humidity improves physical properties of the yarn, and it also helps to obtain the standard moisture value of the fiber.
    [0048] (a) abertura; (b) mistura; (c) processo de abertura e limpeza; (d) cardagem (e) trefilação (f) fiação preliminar; (g) fabricação do fio com matriz; (h) bobinagem; e (i) condicionamento. [048] One aspect of the invention is the method of making the concentric spun yarn, the yarn covering being a mixture or combination of PTT and any other staple fiber other than cotton, in which the process comprises the steps of; (the opening; (b) mixing; (c) opening and cleaning process; (d) carding (e) wire drawing (f) preliminary wiring; (g) fabrication of the matrix wire; (h) winding; and (i) conditioning.
    [0049] (a) torcimento de fio de algodão; (b) tingimento Indigo e engomagem do fio de urdidura; (c) tecelagem de fibra de algodão tingida indigo com o fio fiado concêntrico a base de PTT; (d) chamuscagem; (e) desengomagem; (f) termofixação; (g) mercerização (opcional); (h) acabamento; e (i) sanforização. [049] One aspect of the invention is the method of making a denim fabric using the concentric spun yarn of the invention and indigo dyed staple fiber yarn, the process comprising the steps of; (a) twisting of cotton thread; (b) Indigo dyeing and warping of the warp yarn; (c) weaving of cotton fiber dyed indigo with the concentric spun yarn based on PTT; (d) singeing; (e) degumming; (f) thermosetting; (g) mercerization (optional); (h) finishing; and (i) sanforization.
    [0050] [050] An illustrative representation of the process is shown in figure 2.
    [0051] (a) torcimento; (b) engomagem; (c) tecelagem; (d) desengomagem; (e) purga; (f) branqueamento; (g) termofixação (h) acabamento; (i) sanforização; (j) opcionalmente etapas de mercerização são realizadas antes da etapa de acabamento após a etapa de termofixação para tecidos a base de algodão; (k) opcionalmente etapas de tingimento de peça são realizadas para tecidos tingidos em peça. A etapa de tingimento precede a etapa de acabamento. [051] One aspect of the invention is the method of manufacturing a flat fabric of lower weight using the concentric spun yarn of the invention and any other staple fiber yarn, the process comprising the steps of: (a) twisting; (b) ironing; (c) weaving; (d) degumming; (e) purge; (f) bleaching; (g) thermosetting (h) finishing; (i) sanforization; (j) optionally mercerization steps are carried out before the finishing step after the thermosetting step for cotton-based fabrics; (k) optionally piece dyeing steps are performed for fabrics dyed in piece. The dyeing stage precedes the finishing stage.
    [0052] (a) tingimento de fio; (b) torcimento seccional; (c) engomagem; (d) tecelagem; (e) desengomagem; (f) purga; (g) acabamento; (h) sanforização; (i) opcionalmente outras etapas de mercerização e branqueamento são realizadas para tecidos a base de algodão. [052] One aspect of the invention is the method of manufacturing a striped fabric using the concentric spun yarn of the invention and any other staple fiber yarn, the process comprising the steps of: (a) yarn dyeing; (b) sectional twisting; (c) ironing; (d) weaving; (e) degumming; (f) purge; (g) finishing; (h) sanforization; (i) optionally other stages of mercerization and bleaching are performed for cotton-based fabrics.
    [0053] [053] Some of the steps in the manufacturing process can be modified depending on the desired final product. For example, the mercerization steps followed by bleaching are done before the finishing step only if the yarn of cotton staple fiber is present in the fabric. The dyeing process is only necessary for colored fabrics. Naturally, for those skilled in the art, the dyeing step is omitted when simple fabric is desired.
    [0054] [054] In one aspect of the invention, the concentric spun yarn based on polytrimethylene terephthalate forms the weft yarn of the fabric.
    [0055] [055] The term "printed" refers to the fabric that is printed in the form of a fabric.
    [0056] [056] The term "twisting" used here refers to a process of winding the threads on a roll of fabric.
    [0057] [057] The term "ironing" used here refers to a process of coating the threads usually with starch.
    [0058] [058] The term "weaving" used here refers to a process where the fabric is made on a loom in a weaving process with warp yarns originating from weaving bundles interlaced with weft threads in the transverse direction.
    [0059] [059] The term “degumming” used here refers to a process of removing the sizing applied to the warp with the help of enzyme or any other suitable chemical.
    [0060] [060] The term “purge” used here refers to a process of chemical washing of a cotton fabric to remove the natural wax and non-fibrous impurities from the fibers and any other additional impurities or dirt. Purge is usually done in iron containers called autoclave for bleaching fabrics (kiers). The fabric is boiled in an alkali that forms a soap with free fatty acids (saponification). An autoclave (kier) is usually capped, so the sodium hydroxide solution can be boiled under pressure excluding oxygen which degrades cellulose in the fiber. If the appropriate reagents are used, the purge will also remove starch from the fabric although degreasing often precedes the purge and is considered a separate process known as fiber preparation. Preparation and purging are prerequisites for most other finishing processes. At this stage the naturally white cotton fibers are largely yellowish.
    [0061] [061] The term “thermosetting” is a thermal process that occurs most of the time in a dry hot environment (160 oC to 180 oC for 30 to 45 s). The effect of the process provides the fabric with dimensional stability and often other desired attributes such as resistance to kneading or resistance to temperature.
    [0062] [062] The term "mercerization" used here refers to a process of treating the tissue with alkali. This process removes convolutions from a cotton fiber structure and makes it round which improves the hand feel of the fabric, making it more lustrous. In cotton-based fabric mercerization improves fabric resistance as well.
    [0063] [063] The term “bleaching” used here refers to a process where any contaminations, colored or oily stains are removed from the fabric. Bleaching is usually done by treating the fabric with sodium hydrochloride or hydrogen peroxide solution.
    [0064] [064] The term "dyeing" used here refers to a process where the fabric after bleaching is dyed with a color. For a piece-dyed fabric, the warp cotton yarn and the weft PTT-based yarn are dyed separately by a respective known dyeing method For plaid or striped fabric the warp yarn or weft yarn with matrix based on PTT can be dyed separately or together, and the patterns are formed accordingly.
    [0065] [065] The term "finishing" used here refers to a process performed on the fabric after weaving to improve the appearance, performance, or hand feel of the finished textile material or article of clothing. The different finishing techniques are bio-polishing , elevation, filling, calendering, anti-microbial finish, anti-static finish, anti-slip finish and others known in the art .. Suitable finishing agents are used for these finishes.
    [0066] [066] The term "sanforization" used here refers to a treatment process used particularly for cotton fabrics and other textile materials made from natural or chemical fibers. This is a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth to length and width before cutting and production to reduce shrinkage that otherwise occurs after washing.
    [0067] [067] The term "yarn dyeing" used here refers to a process where the weft and warp yarn needs to be dyed. This is done on a high temperature and high pressure dyeing machine.
    [0068] [068] The term "sectional twisting" used here refers to a process of winding the threads in a drum according to the color pattern. Once all the wire patterns are wrapped in the drum they can be wrapped in a warp bundle to insert into the fabric according to the stripe effect required on the fabric.
    [0069] [069] The term "denim" used here is a textile material of rough cotton twill in which the weft passes under two ("double") or more warp threads. Denim has traditionally been colored in blue with indigo dyes.
    [0070] [070] The term "indigo dyeing" used here refers to a process of dyeing the cotton warp fibers with indigo dye using indigo dyeing processes such as dyeing cord process with indigo dye, thinning with dye on a leaf with dye indigo, double leaf dyeing with indigo dye etc.
    [0071] [071] The term "scorching" used here refers to a process of burning loose fibers that protrude from textile articles. Scorching is a part of the treatment processes carried out in textile processing and is usually the first step carried out after weaving. Singing is often done on cotton fabrics or fabrics with cotton blends and results in increased wettability (better dyeing characteristics, improved reflection, no "frozen" appearance), a softer surface (improved clarity in printing), improved visibility of the tissue structure, less pimple formation and reduced contamination by removing fluff and lint. Singing usually involves passing / exposing one or both sides of a fabric over a gas flame to burn the spare fibers. Other scorching methods include infrared scorching and thermal scorching for thermoplastic fibers. Singing of wires is called "gasification". Cellulosic fibers such as cotton are easily scorched as the spare fibers burn to a light dash ash that is easily removed.
    [0072] [072] The following non-restrictive examples are for illustrative purposes and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. EXAMPLES
    [0073] [073] All the chemicals mentioned were commercially obtained as long as there are no different indications. All the equipment used is well known in the state of the art. EXAMPLE 1
    [0074] [074] This example illustrates a manufacturing process for concentric spun yarn using carded fibers from polytrimethylene terephthalate and carded cotton fibers.
    [0075] • roletes de alimentação e ajuste de lâmina misturadora =1.7 mm • densidade linear de tela = 400 g/m • configuração da coleta de refugo foi ajustado para ‘0’ • Velocidade de misturador de abertura grossa =400 rpm • velocidade de misturador de abertura fina =450 rpm [075] Carded fibers of polytrimethylene terephthalate (35 kg, 38 mm fiber length, 1.5 Denier) and carded cotton fibers (combed belt) (65 kg, 31 mm medium length upper quartile, 4.0 □ g / inch) they've been used. The fibers were opened manually then mixed together. The fibers were mixed by applying 2 layers of cotton and a layer of PTT. This process is called a stacking mixing process. Then the fiber mass was removed from the pile by vertical drawing of the material and conducted to an opening and cleaning line. The process parameters of the opening and cleaning line selected for PTT / cotton fiber processing were: • feed rollers and mixing blade adjustment = 1.7 mm • linear screen density = 400 g / m • scrap collection setting has been set to '0' • Coarse-opening mixer speed = 400 rpm • fine-opening mixer speed = 450 rpm
    [0076] • Produção de máquina = 28 kg/hr • placa de alimentação e abridor em calibre = 32 thou • calibre de flat = 12,12,10,10,10 thou • tamanho de trompete = 4.0 mm • densidade linear de cinta = 4.5 g/m • abridor em velocidade= 750 rpm • velocidade de cilindro= 350 rpm • velocidade de flat = 5 inch/min [076] After the opening and cleaning line, the fiber fleece was taken to a carder using an aero-pneumatic feeding system. The process parameters for the carder were: • Machine production = 28 kg / hr • feed plate and opener in caliber = 32 thou • flat gauge = 12.12,10,10,10 thou • trumpet size = 4.0 mm • linear belt density = 4.5 g / m • speed opener = 750 rpm • cylinder speed = 350 rpm • flat speed = 5 inch / min
    [0077] • calibre de rolete de fundo Frente/Traseira= 40/44 mm • diâmetro de trompete = 3.8 mm • densidade linear de fita (em ambos pré-estiradores e estiradores de acabamento) = 4.6 g/m • Pré-estiragens =1.7 em pré-estirador, 1.3 em estirador de acabamento • estiragem de tensão em tela= 1 • estiragem de tensão em cesto = 1.02-1.03 • velocidade de liberação = 200-250 mpm em estirador preliminar, 350-400 mpm em estirador de acabamento • Duplicação = 6 para pré-estiragem e estiragem de acabamento [077] A belt comes out of the carder with a very high mass / length variation along the length. To minimize the variation, the Carding Girdles were folded together and simultaneously stretched six times to guide the fibers in the resulting girdle along the longitudinal direction. The duplication and stretching process was carried out in a draw frame. Two drawing processes were carried out to reduce the mass / length variation in the belt to a minimum and to orient the fiber in the longitudinal direction. The cardiac belt was processed in two sets of dowels with the listed parameters. • front / rear bottom roller gauge = 40/44 mm • trumpet diameter = 3.8 mm • linear tape density (on both pre-stretchers and finishing stretchers) = 4.6 g / m • Pre-drafts = 1.7 in pre-drafts, 1.3 in finishing drafts • tension strain on screen = 1 • strain strain in basket = 1.02-1.03 • release speed = 200-250 mpm on preliminary drawing, 350-400 mpm on finishing drawing • Duplication = 6 for pre-drawing and finishing drawing
    [0078] • tamanho do espaçador = 5.5 mm • velocidade de fuso = 750 rpm • Multiplicador de trança= 1.2 • calibre de rolete = 48/64mm • calibre de suporte=54/60.5mm [078] The finishing stretcher belt has been converted to preliminary spinning in the speed frame with the process parameters as listed: • spacer size = 5.5 mm • spindle speed = 750 rpm • Braid multiplier = 1.2 • roller gauge = 48 / 64mm • support gauge = 54 / 60.5mm
    [0079] • calibre de rolete = 42.5/65mm • calibre de suporte=51/66 mm • dureza de Cots (Frente/traseira) = 68/83° • pre-estiramento=1.2 • multiplicador de trança = 4.3 [079] The preliminary spinning done on the speed frame converts the wires by stretching it later along the final spinning machine called the ring frame. The spun yarn count was 9.6s Ne. The denier of spandex filament with matrix was 70 D. Spandex went to a stretch of 2.1 before placing it on the yarn. The spandex% in the final yarn was 6.3%. The process parameters of the ring frame were: • roller gauge = 42.5 / 65mm • support gauge = 51/66 mm • Cots hardness (Front / rear) = 68/83 ° • pre-stretch = 1.2 • braid multiplier = 4.3
    [0080] [080] The final package (coil) that was obtained from the machine weighed (liquid) approximately 800 gm.
    [0081] • velocidade =1000 mpm • tensão de fio= 5 - 6 % of carga de rompimento do fio • Ajuste de dureza da embalagem: mínimo • peso de cone= 2.0 kg [081] These small bobbins of 80 g each were joined and cleaned for any yarn defects and finally wrapped in a large final package called a cone in a winder. The process parameters maintained in the winder are: • speed = 1000 mpm • wire tension = 5 - 6% of wire breaking load • Hardness adjustment of the packaging: minimum • cone weight = 2.0 kg
    [0082] [082] The wire was conditioned in an autoclave under 70 ° C for 50 min. The yarn cones were directly used as a weft in the fabric manufacturing process in which stretching the fabric is required in a crosswise direction. However, these threads can be used in the longitudinal direction to obtain a warp-stretched or bi-stretched fabric. EXAMPLE 2
    [0083] [083] This example illustrates a process for manufacturing denim fabric using the concentric spun yarn obtained from example 1 as a weft.
    [0084] • velocidade de tear = 750 rpm • largura do tecido = 68 inches • Trançado diagonal "Twill” =3/1 trançado lado direito • Pontas por inch = 70 • Arrancamentos por inch = 44 • contagem de urdidura = (7.2s + 6.4s) Ne (1 + 1), 100 % fio anular de algodão • contagem de trama = 9.6s Ne com 70 D spandex (6.27 %) fio fiado concêntrico [084] The fabric was manufactured using an air jet weaving machine. The warp was 100% cotton carded fibers dyed with indigo dye. The weft was the concentric spun yarn obtained from Example 1. The machine's process parameters were: • loom speed = 750 rpm • fabric width = 68 inches • Diagonal braided "Twill" = 3/1 braided right side • Tips per inch = 70 • Pullings per inch = 44 • warp count = (7.2s + 6.4s) Ne (1 + 1), 100% cotton ring yarn • weft count = 9.6s Ne with 70 D spandex (6.27%) concentric spun yarn
    [0085] [085] The fabric obtained was scorched in a fabric scorching machine by passing over a set of burners at 80 mpm. The spare fibers were burned and removed. The tissue was then degummed by covering with enzymes for 12 to 18 hrs. The fabric was then washed with water. The tissue was mercerized by treatment with 18.5% NaOH solution at 65 oC at 40 mpm. The fabric was then dried at 105 oC by passing it through a set of calendering rollers. The fabric was then passed through a sanforizing machine, adjusting the inclination, contraction of length and width by passing over a rubber roller in a steam chamber (Monforte) at 50 mpm. This was done on a dimensionally stable final garment, with an acceptable percentage of shrinkage and improved hand feel of the fabric. The resulting fabric was a finished fabric and can be converted into garments.
    [0086] [086] Table 1 below shows the test results for the desired properties of a denim fabric made by the example above. TABLE 1: TISSUE TEST RESULTS FOR DENIM TISSUE
    权利要求:
    Claims (6)
    [0001]
    FABRIC WITH WEAVING AND WEAVING YARNS, weft yarns comprising a concentric spun yarn characterized by comprising a stretchable spandex filament surrounded by a coating comprising a discontinuous fiber based on polymethylmethylene terephthalate in combination with a second discontinuous fiber, where the warp yarn comprises cotton and the fabric has a stretch recovery in the range of 75 to 95% and a growth of <2.3%.
    [0002]
    FABRIC, according to claim 1, characterized in that the second fiber of the concentric spun yarn is selected from the group consisting of cotton, viscose, polyester, nylon, modal, tencel, wool and combinations thereof.
    [0003]
    FABRIC, according to claim 1, characterized by the content of discontinuous fiber based on polytrimethylene terephthalate in the coating of the concentric spun yarn being in the range of 10% to 60%.
    [0004]
    FABRIC, according to claim 1, characterized in that the spandex filament content of the concentric spun yarn is in the range of 2 to 10%.
    [0005]
    FABRIC according to claim 1, characterized in that the second discontinuous fiber of the concentric spun yarn is a cotton discontinuous fiber.
    [0006]
    FABRIC, according to claim 1, characterized for being for use in applications selected from the group consisting of garments, sheeting material, furniture and upholstery.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    EP2791404A1|2014-10-22|
    CN103998662B|2017-06-13|
    JP6338249B2|2018-06-06|
    EP2791404B1|2019-09-18|
    WO2013090422A1|2013-06-20|
    CN103998662A|2014-08-20|
    US20140308865A1|2014-10-16|
    KR102057479B1|2020-01-22|
    JP2015504981A|2015-02-16|
    KR20140101851A|2014-08-20|
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    法律状态:
    2018-03-27| B06F| Objections, documents and/or translations needed after an examination request according [chapter 6.6 patent gazette]|
    2019-08-20| B06U| Preliminary requirement: requests with searches performed by other patent offices: procedure suspended [chapter 6.21 patent gazette]|
    2020-01-21| B25A| Requested transfer of rights approved|Owner name: DUPONT INDUSTRIAL BIOSCIENCES USA, LLC (US) |
    2021-02-23| B09A| Decision: intention to grant [chapter 9.1 patent gazette]|
    2021-03-23| B16A| Patent or certificate of addition of invention granted [chapter 16.1 patent gazette]|Free format text: PRAZO DE VALIDADE: 20 (VINTE) ANOS CONTADOS A PARTIR DE 12/12/2012, OBSERVADAS AS CONDICOES LEGAIS. |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    IN3626DE2011|2011-12-13|
    IN3626/DEL/2011|2011-12-13|
    PCT/US2012/069231|WO2013090422A1|2011-12-13|2012-12-12|Stretchable and dimensionally stable woven fabric made from polytrimethylene terephthalate based core spun yarns.|
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